Located on the south-eastern coast of Finland, Porvoo (Swedish: Borgå) is Finland’s second oldest city and was one of the six medieval towns of Finland, with Turku, Naantali, Vyborg, Rauma and Ulvila.

The name Porvoo comes from the Swedish Borgå, meaning borg (castle) and å (river). Porvoo is one of Finland’s historical gems and still preserves various 18th-century buildings, the 15th-century Porvoo Cathedral and the Old Town Hall (the oldest surviving town hall in Finland).

Porvoo Old Town has a unique romantic charm and is ideal for a day trip from Helsinki (less than an hour’s drive). The Old Town is filled with red-ochre painted woodhouse, cozy cafes, and artisanal boutiques. Our visit started with a stop at Porvoon Paahtimo Bar & Café for a cup of hot coffee and Runeberg torte - a must if you visit Porvoo!

Runebergintorttu (runebergstårta in Swedish) is a type of pastry flavored with almonds, raspberry jam, and rum or arrack. It’s named after Finland’s national poet Johan Ludvig Runeberg who lived in Porvoo from 1837 until his death in 1877. Legend has it that Runeberg’s wife, Fredrika, would regularly make him Runeberg torte with Punsch for breakfast.

Traditionally, Runeberg tortes are served in cafés all over Finland on Runeberg Day (February the 5th), but in Porvoo, you will often find them all year round.

Of the various museums we visited, my favourite was Runeberg’s home, which became a museum in 1882. Inside, you’ll find original 1870s furniture, various artworks, and Runeberg’s personal hunting weapon collection. Yet Runeber’s home also offers a window into the life of Runeberg’s wife, Fredrika, an influential writer in her own right. She authored several historical novels and was one of Finland’s first female journalists.

Fredrika was also passionate about gardening,as beautifully documented in her surviving notebooks, which contain her personal observations and practical gardening tips. In a nod to Fredrika’s love for plants and gardening, the home museum today maintains an extensive collection of various species of houseplants

Apparently, there was a great interest in window gardens and houseplants in Finland in the 19th century. If you visit Porvoo during summer, definitely check out Frederika’s historic garden.

porvoo - borgå

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